It is important to remember that even though a young tortoise may seem small to begin with, they will definitely grow over the years, so it is ultimately the most beneficial to invest in a large terrarium up front. A good minimum enclosure size for an adult tortoise is a 40 gallon breeder tank. The bottom of the tank should be covered in a few inches of substrate. Different types of substrate can include Jungle Mix, Repti-bark, or other types of shavings.

All reptiles are cold-blooded, meaning they cannot metabolize their food without an external heat source. In the wild, this means they will go out and bask in the sunshine; in your home, you will need to provide this source of heat. The best way to do this is by setting up a UVA/UVB lamp and a heat lamp on one end of the tank. This will make one side of the tank the “hot” end, and one side the cooler end. By doing this, you are providing a heat gradient so that your tortoise can actually self-regulate their internal temperature. If not given enough heat, reptiles may go into a state similar to hibernation called brumation, which can be dangerous if not induced or monitored by a reptile specialist. The cool end should be around 70º, while the basking spot should reach 95º-110º. Also keep the humidity between 30%-60%.

Lastly, always provide a place to hide large enough for the tortoise to fit comfortably in and be able to turn around. This hide should ideally be on the cooler side of the tank. A hide provides a sense of security and a place to sleep. As for cleaning the tank, remove any waste as soon as you can so that your tortoise stays as clean as possible, and the tank does not begin to acquire a smell.

Many reptiles are carnivores or insectivores, but most of the Burmese star tortoise diet can be found in your local supermarket, as they are completely vegetarian. A good tortoise meal should include a base of leafy greens, such as lettuce, dandelion greens, chicory, bok choy, and/or turnip greens. For treats, you can give your tortoise sweeter veggies like squash, sweet potatoes, red peppers, and carrots, and even the occasional piece of fruit, such as strawberries, grapes, or cantaloupe. Tortoises are naturally drawn to brighter colors in food. Spinach and kale, while being high in nutritional value, should be given only in very small quantities, as they are calcium-binding and prevent proper absorption of vitamins.

Star tortoises need to be fed daily. It is a good idea to put a large handful of the salad on a small tortoise-safe plate or bowl in the middle of the tank where they can easily walk up to it. Observe the food after it has been available for a while to make sure your tortoise is eating. If there is any salad left over at the end of the day, remove remaining food so it doesn’t go bad overnight. Always provide more food than you think they will need; since leafy greens are so low in calories, a tortoise may continually eat for most of the day.

Calcium is paramount in any reptile’s diet. The best thing to do to ensure your tortoise is getting enough is to sprinkle vitamin and mineral powder on top of their salad daily. Lastly, always have a water dish available that is easily accessible. It is a myth that tortoises get all of their hydration from lettuce. Keep an eye on the water dish to make sure there is always enough, since the heat lamp will cause some to evaporate. Many tortoises will enjoy soaking in their water dishes from time to time.

Picking up a tortoise is easiest by grasping them firmly, but gently, on either side of the base of the shell. Use two hands if the tortoise is larger than four inches in length. Touching the shell is all right, but avoid touching their face or neck. As with any animal, be cautious when letting a child hold your tortoise. It is crucial to always watch interactions between children and pets, as a child can easily drop a small tortoise. If you let your tortoise roam a room (preferably only once they are a few years old and larger than five inches), make sure the room is bite-proof, meaning no exposed wires or toxic substances on the ground, and always watch to make sure they stay out of harm’s way.

Burmese star tortoises make great pets for someone looking for a quiet, easy-to-feed, and uniquely exotic addition to the family. Cost-wise, they generally are most expensive up front, with the purchase of a tank and heating lamps. After that, they are generally low cost and low maintenance.

Tortoises can suffer from a number of ailments, including, but not limited to, respiratory infection, shell disorders caused by malnutrition, metabolic bone disease, or kidney failure. Proper care and nutrition can do wonders in prevention of these diseases, so it is important to always make sure they have adequate heat, food, water, and vitamins.

With any reptile, there is a risk of exposure to salmonella. It is important to always wash hands carefully after handling any animal, especially when children are involved. Never let a child put their pet anywhere near their mouth. It is common for reptiles to have a low number of internal parasites that do not normally pose any risk to humans. In times of stress, the reptile’s immune system may weaken and allow the parasites to overpopulate, posing a risk to the animal’s health.

As with any pet, it is of the utmost importance to seek veterinary care at the first sign of something wrong. We at Fauna recommend the Center for Avian and Exotic Medicine (see below for contact information). We are always happy to take your calls with any questions, and we will try to do our best to help you, but we are unable to provide all the necessary services a veterinarian can.

Fauna
265 West 87th Street (at Broadway)
New York, NY 10024
(212) 877-2473
faunanyc.com
faunacrew@gmail.com

The Center for Avian and Exotic Medicine
562 Columbus Avenue (at 88th Street)
New York, NY 10024
(212) 501-8750